This cooking process aims to remove natural impurities in the form of fats, oils, candles and others contained in the fabric. so as to facilitate the process of further improvement.

Rayon and synthetic fiber is easy to clean fibers, so that cooking is using detergent or a weak alkali.
Cooking Rayon, Polyamida,
and Polyester can be done in a solution of 1-2 grams / liter of soda ash and 1-2 ml / liter of detergent at a temperature of 70 Celsius for 1 hour. then rinsed with cold water.
For acetate rayon fibers should be used 1-2 detergents and 1.5 ml / liter amonia at a temperature no more than 70 Celsius for 20-30 minutes. Other alkali consumption should be avoided because it can happen hidrolisa and the fiber can cause damage.


Laboratory test

Tools and materials
- Gray cloth
- Water
- Soda ash
- Tepol / wetting agent
- Scales
- Glass beaker
- Stick
- Measuring pipette
- Measuring cup
- Thermometer
- Tool Heaters

recipes
- Na2CO3 = 2 grams / liter
- Wetting agent / tepol = 2 cc / liter
- Temperature = 70
- Time = 1 hour
- Vlot = 1:30

substance function
- Na2CO3 = to clean and remove dirt found on the surface of the fabric
- Wetting agent = to reduce tension on the fabric surface
- Water = to dissolve substances

job step
1. prepare equipment and materials
2. fabric weighing
3. calculate the water needs and other substances in accordance with the prescribed
4. dissolve substances that have been calculated into the glass beaker
5. heating the solution to boiling and then put the cloth into the solution and stirring for 1 hour
6. took the cloth from the solution after processing for 1 hour
7. fabric drained and washed with cold water
8. after washing, the fabric is dried with direct sunlight
9. calculate weight fabric
Christmas, Sheraton Mustika Yogyakarta Resort & Spa create a replica of the Christmas tree from batik fabrics. Replica of the Christmas tree as a record-breaking Christmas tree from batik fabric highest in Indonesia.

General Manager of Sheraton Mustika Yogyakarta Mohammed Munir said, a replica of the Christmas tree was made for the coming Christmas holidays at the same time preserving the cultural heritage of batik. "With the Christmas tree of this batik, batik we expect more and more popular so they can continue to be sustainable," he said, Wednesday (23/12).

Sheraton create a replica of the Christmas tree along with the House Batik Yes halwa from Bantul regency. Replication of 19.45 meters tall with a diameter of 8 meters was completed within 20 days. To cover the entire surface, a replica of the Christmas tree that requires batik cloth 360 meters long. Batik cloth used is printed batik cotton patterned entirely machete.

Today, a replica of the nuances of Christmas trees are green on the second floor attached hotel. Replication is also decorated with various ornaments from batik material, ribbons, and colored lights are rising up to the seventh floor that can be viewed by hotel guests from the various floors and direction.

With the size and uniqueness, a replica of the Christmas tree Christmas tree is listed to the highest batik by Indonesia World Records Museum (Muri). Deputy Manager Muri Ariyani Siregar said, when measured, a replica of the Christmas tree are eligible to enter Muri.
Songket is a type of traditional woven cloth Malays from Indonesia. Songket usually woven by hand with gold and silver thread and is generally worn on formal occasions.

The origins of songket is of ancient trade between China and India. Tionghoa people while providing an Indian silk donate gold and silver thread. As a result, be songket.

Songket woven on a frame loom Malays. Intricate patterns are created by introducing the threads of gold or silver with the use of a single extra flat needles.

Songket must go through eight ranks before becoming a piece of cloth and still woven traditionally. Because the weavers are usually from the village, not surprising that his motives were dipolakan with local flora and fauna. This motif was also named by a local pastry Malays as rich series, diamonds, and flour salver, which is allegedly the king's favorite.

Exclusive songket require between one and three months to complete, while ordinary songket only takes about 3 days.

At first the man using songket as a headband or headband. And then she began to Malays wearing gloves with songket baju kurung. Songket today is a popular choice for wedding clothes Malays and often given by the groom to the bride as a wedding gift.

Judging from the price, songket is not intended only for the public to be just because the price varied from the usual and fairly inexpensive, so that exclusive with a very high price.

Songket is the development of customized fabrics decorative yarn mensisipkan at cloth-making process take place. Making cloth in Indonesia conducted by the gedogan loom very rendah.Teknik manufacturing productivity songket with gedogan tools such as mouth opening movement, the launch of weft and weft density are still there are not a machine loom (ATBM) is setting the movement source and the means supporters more effectively. Research carried out by producing 100 yards songket feed with the loom and ATBM gedogan later time and costs compared. ATBM also used to produce 100 yards songket to determine efeksifitasnya warp in the manufacture of two types of songket. The results showed that ATBM can produce songket feed 3 times faster with more indirect cost saving up to 60.67%. While the production of warp songket faster processing time by 3.55 times the indirect cost savings up to 65.79%.

Woven Fabrics Making Technique

Woven fabric is one of the main types obtained from the crossing of warp threads and weft threads. The formation of woven fabric preparation process begins from the threads of warp like pengelosan, penghanian, pencucukan and weaving, while the weft threads only through the process of polishing and weaving. The process of preparation according Liek Suparli (1979) has the goal of improving the quality of yarn as far as possible and make the roll in accordance with the next process to be not much difficulty, congestion or cause the stains on the fabric due to damage threads. While weaving process, according to Dahlan (1974) includes some basic movements such as opening the mouth warp, launch / insertion perapatan weft and weft (pengetekan)

Cloth Making Technique Songket with Gedogan

Songket fabric is diversifying by adding and setting certain threads during weaving process lasted so obtained woven fabric with a decorative motif of a particular thread. Adding special yarn will determine the type produced songket. If the addition of yarn made in the direction warp yarn fabrics generated so-called songket solution, while adding threads to the weft direction will produce songket feed. Adding special yarn made with menganyakannya in certain places in the basic fabric (woven cloth) to form a motif.

According Suwati Kartiwa (1984), I add an additional string in a way to lift or menjungkit some warp threads and yarns are inserted between the two types of hollow braided yarn base. As for how to make the designs done by calculating the composition of the yarn rates in the form of a pyramid-like shape.

Songket-making process generally done on a loom gedogan driven by hand power and still very simple. Stages of the manufacturing process begins by measuring the change process thread that is rolled into a pile of yarn strict on the box or roll of the spools. Then the process is continued from the process for memalet-weft yarn which is a scrolling process in twisting mill yarn palette (kleting). As for warp threads of stalling the process followed by memani process, namely the warp yarn set in the committee as a tool to determine the length and range of warp yarns to be woven and penggulungannnya on board. Then the threads for the warp was continued by nyisir process or processes pencucukan / enter warp yarn in the hole comb. The next stage is to wipe the process or processes and streamlining pembentangan / leveling and scrolling on the board as a boom loom. End of a series of these processes is the end result of the merger of warp yarns and weft of weaving process.
Amid recognition as a UNESCO cultural heritage of Indonesia, batik production using natural dyes Kulonprogo, Yogyakarta able to break the world market. Batik natural color is a favorite destination because of the color excess mamiliki difficult to emulate batik batik dye types that use synthetic dyes raw materials. The resulting color is softer than synthetic dyes whose color is bright and attractive to foreign tourists.

These comments were made in the middle of the UNESCO information confirmed Indonesiamasuk batik in Indonesia daftarsebagai cultural heritage. Inauguration of UNESCO can make better known Indonesian batik world community.

Inauguration of the
UNESCO cultural heritage well as Indonesia, batik is expected to use natural dyes to the front can be better. Since 2004, the home of batik production using natural dyes are often visited by foreigners for shopping batik.

according to one citizen in Kulonprogo, Yogyakarta, to dye batik using raw materials such as plants produced brown leather mahogany trees, yellow color is produced from mango leaves, and blue colors using Tinetoria Fera Indigoo plants commonly known as Tom or plant species Tarum.










mahogany trees
This cooking process aims to remove natural impurities in the form of fats, oils, candles and others that can facilitate the process of further improvement.

Cooking with gauze Kostiksoda a preparatory process before the fabric through further processing. With this process, part of the fiber constituent components of oil, wax, grease, dirt and soluble impurities attached to the fiber surface can be removed. If these components can be removed, then the next process such as pengelantangan, immersion and so can work well.

reactions that occur in the cooking process of cotton fabric dengna Kostiksoda / Sodium hydroxide is as follows:






laboratory test

tools and materials
- Gray cloth
- Water
- Caustic soda
- Tepol / wetting agent
- Sodium carbonate
- Scales
- Glass beaker
- Stick
- Measuring pipette
- Measuring cup
- Thermometer
- Tool Heaters

recipes
- Caustic soda 38'Be = 10 cc / liter, or
- NaOH crystal = 4 -5 grams / liter
- Wetting agent / tepol = 2 cc / liter
- Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3) = 1 gram / liter
- Temperature = 90
- Time = 1 - 2 hours
- Vlot = 1:30

substance function
- Caustic soda = turn fat into soap is soluble in water
- Na2CO3 = to soften the water
- Wetting agent = to memperkacil surface tension in the fabric
- Water = to dissolve substances

job step
1. prepare equipment and materials
2. fabric weighing
3. calculate the water needs and other substances in accordance with the prescribed
4. dissolve substances that have been calculated into the glass beaker
5. heating the solution to boiling for 2 hours and then put the cloth into the solution and stirred
6. took the cloth from the solution after processing for 2 hours
7. fabric drained and washed with hot water and washed again with cold water
8. after washing, the fabric is dried with direct sunlight
9. calculate weight fabric

In the provision of materials provided must be within their water needs because that is necessary for the stability of the fabric being processed.
starch removal process aims to eliminate starch on warp yarn with starch using an alkali hydrolysis NaOH (Sodium hydroxide) in order to facilitate the process of further improvement.

how the removal of starch with an alkali can be performed on soluble starch in alkali. proteins such as starch, PVA dal etc.. Starch can also terhidrolisa by strong alkali (sodium hydroxide), but it takes a long time, which is about 12 hours, split over 2 hours and 10 hours of soaking peram process. NaOH function to convert starch into sugar that dissolve in water.

laboratory test


tools and materials
- Gray cloth
- Water
- NaOH
- Scales
- Glass beaker
- Stick
- Measuring pipette
- Tool Heaters

recipes
- NaOH = 2%
- Temperature = 40
- Time = 12 hours
- Vlot = 1:30

job step
1. prepare equipment and materials
2. weigh fabric to be processed
3. calculate the water needs and NaOH according to the recipe
4. NaOH and water poured into the glass beaker to form a solution
5. heating the solution and insert the fabric into the solution and stirred
6. took the cloth from the solution after processing for 2 hours
7. do peram process of cloth wrapped by a plastic cloth
8. wash cloth to clean
9. after washing, the fabric is dried with direct sunlight

NaOH is not often used because it is not perfect and can not change the starch into sugar that dissolve in this process is air.hasil fabric becomes softer than the previous because the starch contained in the fabric is gone and absorbent cloth for the better.
starch removal process aims to eliminate starch on warp yarn with starch using enzyme hydrolysis so as to facilitate the process of further improvement.

Disappearance of starch with the enzyme is often used because the process process takes a shorter time than other methods that process. This process also does not cause damage to the fabric. However, the removal process of starch with this enzyme is influenced by pH and temperature factors. If the temperature is too high then the enzyme will die element, whereas if the Ph of the cloth will be damaged. Therefore, these two factors must be reached in order to obtain optimum results perfect. Maltose Diastase enzyme function to change the type of starch into glucose solution of starch dissolved in water.

laboratory test

tools and materials
- Gray cloth
- Water
- Enzymes Diastase Maltose
- Scales
- Glass beaker
- Stick
- Measuring pipette
- Measuring cup
- Thermometer
- Tool Heaters

recipes
- Diastase Maltose = 3 - 10 grams / liter
- PH = 6 to 7.5
- Temperature = 50 to 60
- Time = 8 hours
- Vlot = 1:30

job step
1. prepare equipment and materials
2. weigh fabric to be processed
3. calculate the water needs and other substances in accordance with the prescribed
4. dissolve substances that have been calculated into the glass beaker
5. heating the solution and insert the fabric into the solution at optimum temperature and then stirred
6. took the cloth from the solution after processing for 2 hours
7. do peram process of cloth wrapped by a plastic sheet for 8 hours
8. wash cloth to clean
9. after washing, the fabric is dried with direct sunlight
10. calculate weight fabric

In granting the enzyme must be within their water needs because if the provision would excessively rapid enzyme describe starch contained in the fabric, the fabric becomes damaged as a result. Likewise, the heating substance, is necessary accuracy in pH and temperature, because the enzyme is strongly influenced by pH and temperature. if the temperature is too high then the enzyme will break down and if the temperature is too low then the enzyme does not work.
The process of removal of starch by enzyme Diastase Maltose can produce a better fabric for the provision of enzymes and perendamannya something with the results obtained.
1. tools & materials

- White cloth

early appearance, the fabric is used as batik material is self-woven fabrics. New import white cloth known around the 19th century. now you can easily get a white cloth with affordable prices. Type of fabric that can be used also varied, from the type of cloth to the type of silk. Size did not have wide, enough with the small size.

- Gawangan
Gawangan made of wood or bamboo is easily portable and sturdy. Gawangan function is to hang cloth and spread when will dibatik using canting







- Canting
Such canting function pen, wax-filled night as the ink liquid. Canting diverse forms, from yan berujun one to several end. Canting which has several functions to make the end points in a single touch. While the lead single canting function to create lines, curves and so on. Canting consists of three parts. Canting handles made from bamboo. There is a bowl as a candle tonight, and the tip of the pen tip berlubangsebagai place candles out of the night.



- Tepas
Tepas is not used if the fire using the stove. Tepas is a tool to raise the fire according to requirements; made of bamboo. Besides Tepas, used also ilir. Tepas and ilir in substantially the same, just different shapes. Tepas rectangular and tapered on one side of the stem width and is located on the pointy part.

- Candle
before use, should be liquidated lillin night beforehand by heating on the stove or other heater. Candle Night in batik-making process functioned to keep the colors to not enter into the fabric fibers are undesirable. As for the part to be covered with colored wax left.

- Pan
Skillet is the tool to break the "night" (wax for batik). Pan made of steel, or clay. Pans should be handled so easily raised and lowered from the furnace without using other tools. Therefore pan made of clay better than that of metals because the stem is not easy to heat. But the clay pan heat a little slow candle.

- Stove
Anglo made of clay, or other materials. Anglo is the fireplace as a heating means "night". Iron stove is made from a given axis .. When to use the stove, then the material is to make a fire of wood charcoal. If firewood use is replaced with cool brazier; cool this is what many people used in the villages. Cool in principle the same with the stove, but no story.

- Dyes
batik dyes used every different area. Dyes are derived from materials found in the area. In Kebumen example, batik dyes used are tom trees, trees and mengkudu pace that gives the red color of yellow artificiality. Tegal used in pace or mengkudu, indigo, and timber Soga.






2. Preparation Batik

a. Anglo and a pan of wax should be ready to start making batik. Tonight should be perfect liquid (the old wax). So smoothly out through the beak canting; addition of wax can be absorbed completely in memory. The fire in the brazier or cool to be kept still burning, but should not be burned, because it is dangerous when wet wax in the pan.

b. Mori has been prepared to close above gawangan cool, brazier. The batik sit between gawangan and cool or anglo.Gawangan standing on the left and the right cool batik. People who work batik called "pengobeng".

c. After everything's fine batik began his task. First held canting. How to hold a different canting with how to hold a pencil, or pen to write. The difference is due to end cantingbentuknya curved beak and big-legged, is a pencil or pen straight. Holding canting with the ends of the thumb, forefinger and middle finger like a pencil to write, but the stem horizontal canting, while the pencil to write in a leaning position. Such canting position to keep the candle in nyamplunga not spill.

d. By canting the scoop pengobeng boiling wax in a pan and above dibatikkan mori. Before blowing dibatikkan first canting meniuppun way with certain rules, so that the candle in Nyamplungan not spill on pengobeng lips.


Canting is blown with a view:

1. To restore the liquid wax into the front line Nyamplungan, so as not to drip before the end of the canting attached mori.

2. To remove the wetting liquid wax kingfisher canting; for a bloody beak canting wax will reduce scratches better, especially when progress at the beginning of canting mori.

3. To control the canting of the possibility of front line clogged with dirt candles. If clogged, the fluid in Nyamplungan voiceless, because the air can not enter. So the end of the beak poked holes using fibers, or coconut fiber to go along the front line. Usually after stabbed blown back, or directly on the dibatikkan mori. Keitimewaan pierced the left hand is wearing a certain way in a fast time.

4. Canting the new state carved right on the mori. The left hand is disebalik mori. As a basis (penguak) a new memory carved with canting. If the search in Nyamplungan wax runs out, or less smoothly probably because cooling, the candle back into the skillet; dicidukkan canting on liquid wax in the pan, too. Refund wax cold that had not been a big influence on the wax in the pan. This was done smpai completed, and including nemboki.


3. job step

Batik stages of a memory to be done step by step. Each stage can be done by different people, but a piece of memory can not be done some time together.
The stages were:

a. batik frame

batik framework using patterns called "mola", was without a pattern called "ngrujak". Dibatik Mori had all of frameworks, both ex-wear patterns and dirujak, called "batikkan void", also called "klowongan '. Canting canting used is called the beak sedeng klowongan also canting.

b. ngisen-iseni

ngisen-iseni of the word "content". So ngisen-iseni means giving the content or filling. Ngisen canting iseni using small kingfisher called canting canting Isen Isen variety. But not necessarily a piece of memory to use all kinds of canting Isen, but depends on the motive to be in buat.Umpama require different canting due to a wide range of Isen; But batik should one by one, and each part must be completed before the rest is done by others such as canting if "nyeceki" (a motif consisting of the points),

section must be completed entirely cecekan. Activities do have parts of their names; name by canting the name used. The process of naming is to change the name of the object (a canting) as a verb, his work was taken from the name used canting. The name is: the use nyeceki canting cecekan, the result is called cecekan. Is to use canting Neloni Telon, the result is called telon. Canting is to use Mrapati Prapatan, results, and so on. But the use or Canting Canting Galaran Renteng, always called ngalari, and never called "ngrentengi"; was the result is always called "galaran", was never called "rentengan" How to use a gradual canting many advantages. The first advantage is the canting can be used interchangeably in a single group pengobeng (batik different tasks (different stages Working batikan); two second advantage is to reduce the number of such canting despite considerable pengobeng members. If two people will be using the same kind of canting, cantinga whereas only one, so one can put it off and do other parts with different canting. seterusnya.Batikkan so complete with Isen Isen-called "slope-rengan". kaena name By rengan the batten-the batik pengobeng since permuaan until completion ( end) gives Isen Isen-called "ngengreng". ngerengan So is the motive of the overall unity of your choice. This is the first solution.

c. Nerusi

Nerusi a second resolution. Batikan the form then ngengrengan behind the surface, and dibatik back to the second surface. Nerusi batik is batik batik motifs follow the first in the former tembusnya. Nerusi no different from the first molar and batikan serve as a pattern. Canting-cantingyang used together with canting canting to ngengreng nerusi especially for the first batikan copies thicken and to clarify. Batikan who finished at this stage was still called "ngengrengan". Pengobeng the batik from start to finish nerusi called "ngengreng".

d. Nembok

A not entirely given batikan color or colors will be different at the time the settlement became kain.Maka parts will not be given a color, or color will be given after other parts have to be closed by night. How to close it as another way of making batik using canting tembokan. Canting of tembokan bercucuk. People who work called "Nembok" or nemboki and the result is called "tembokan". Walled sections are usually on the sidelines of the main motives. Brick usually use low-quality night. Although a full night dirt but large canting canting bercucuk not much disturbed. Also part tembokan wide and thick enough, resulting in less nembok good night to be overcome.

On the evening functions essentially to establish a motive in addition, also to close the steps of the color of the fabric, where the color-forming it as a real batik motif. Nem-bok on one face only mori.

e. Bliriki

Bliriki is nerusi tembokan to the parts that really covered. Tembokan canting Bliriki use and how such nemboki. If the last stage is finished means finished batik process. Results Bliriki called "blirikan" but rarely called that, is more commonly called "tembokan". Indeed batik process is completed when the last one was completed; or if you do not need to batikan walled, then called over the prior batikan walled. In the past era of Surakarta regions, each finished last stages, batikan dried up "night" it is almost melted.

You mean it is drying so that the candle in memory not easily fall out or missing. For "night" (boiling) the time used for batik and tangent to the cold will freeze mori suddenly because of the "shock". Freezing nights were not so good, because batikan often broken and easy to fall evening.

But if the drying, heating occurs uniformly, and the memory that have come terpanasi.Mori warming sun will expand, and has absorption. This expands the process strengthen attach night began to melt; before that night should be appointed batikan melt gently into the shade.

In the shade, batikan be cooled simultaneously. This cooling process was no advantage, because the memory and strengthen each other night lekat.Selesailah batik work.
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