Songket is a type of traditional woven cloth Malays from Indonesia. Songket usually woven by hand with gold and silver thread and is generally worn on formal occasions. The origins of songket is of ancient trade between China and India. Tionghoa people while providing an Indian silk donate gold and silver thread. As a result, be songket.
Songket woven on a frame loom Malays. Intricate patterns are created by introducing the threads of gold or silver with the use of a single extra flat needles.
Songket must go through eight ranks before becoming a piece of cloth and still woven traditionally. Because the weavers are usually from the village, not surprising that his motives were dipolakan with local flora and fauna. This motif was also named by a local pastry Malays as rich series, diamonds, and flour salver, which is allegedly the king's favorite.
Exclusive songket require between one and three months to complete, while ordinary songket only takes about 3 days.
At first the man using songket as a headband or headband. And then she began to Malays wearing gloves with songket baju kurung. Songket today is a popular choice for wedding clothes Malays and often given by the groom to the bride as a wedding gift.
Judging from the price, songket is not intended only for the public to be just because the price varied from the usual and fairly inexpensive, so that exclusive with a very high price.
Songket is the development of customized fabrics decorative yarn mensisipkan at cloth-making process take place. Making cloth in Indonesia conducted by the gedogan loom very rendah.Teknik manufacturing productivity songket with gedogan tools such as mouth opening movement, the launch of weft and weft density are still there are not a machine loom (ATBM) is setting the movement source and the means supporters more effectively. Research carried out by producing 100 yards songket feed with the loom and ATBM gedogan later time and costs compared. ATBM also used to produce 100 yards songket to determine efeksifitasnya warp in the manufacture of two types of songket. The results showed that ATBM can produce songket feed 3 times faster with more indirect cost saving up to 60.67%. While the production of warp songket faster processing time by 3.55 times the indirect cost savings up to 65.79%.
Woven Fabrics Making Technique
Woven fabric is one of the main types obtained from the crossing of warp threads and weft threads. The formation of woven fabric preparation process begins from the threads of warp like pengelosan, penghanian, pencucukan and weaving, while the weft threads only through the process of polishing and weaving. The process of preparation according Liek Suparli (1979) has the goal of improving the quality of yarn as far as possible and make the roll in accordance with the next process to be not much difficulty, congestion or cause the stains on the fabric due to damage threads. While weaving process, according to Dahlan (1974) includes some basic movements such as opening the mouth warp, launch / insertion perapatan weft and weft (pengetekan)
Cloth Making Technique Songket with Gedogan
Songket fabric is diversifying by adding and setting certain threads during weaving process lasted so obtained woven fabric with a decorative motif of a particular thread. Adding special yarn will determine the type produced songket. If the addition of yarn made in the direction warp yarn fabrics generated so-called songket solution, while adding threads to the weft direction will produce songket feed. Adding special yarn made with menganyakannya in certain places in the basic fabric (woven cloth) to form a motif.
According Suwati Kartiwa (1984), I add an additional string in a way to lift or menjungkit some warp threads and yarns are inserted between the two types of hollow braided yarn base. As for how to make the designs done by calculating the composition of the yarn rates in the form of a pyramid-like shape.
Songket-making process generally done on a loom gedogan driven by hand power and still very simple. Stages of the manufacturing process begins by measuring the change process thread that is rolled into a pile of yarn strict on the box or roll of the spools. Then the process is continued from the process for memalet-weft yarn which is a scrolling process in twisting mill yarn palette (kleting). As for warp threads of stalling the process followed by memani process, namely the warp yarn set in the committee as a tool to determine the length and range of warp yarns to be woven and penggulungannnya on board. Then the threads for the warp was continued by nyisir process or processes pencucukan / enter warp yarn in the hole comb. The next stage is to wipe the process or processes and streamlining pembentangan / leveling and scrolling on the board as a boom loom. End of a series of these processes is the end result of the merger of warp yarns and weft of weaving process.
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